In a town where ‘luxury suites’ hotels (shiny, replica antiques, Jacuzzi baths, illuminated fountains, you get the picture) abound, Vetera is like a breeze of fresh air. This tiny hotel has only four rooms, two on the first floor, two on the second, while the ground floor is used as reception/breakfast/sitting room. The building dates from the 15th century, and, like many historical buildings in Rethymno, the architecture is typically Venetian, with also some distinct Turkish elements. It has been lovingly restored by owner and art conservationist Niki Paschali. She kept as many of the house’s original features intact as possible and in terms of modernisation, she only did what was absolutely necessary, so the house hasn’t lost any of its charm and character. She just added some: carefully selected antique and handmade country-style furniture, and many thoughtful decorative touches, give everything a romantic, almost French provincial touch. Maybe ‘adorable’ is a strange word to use for the description of a hotel, but this one certainly fits the bill.