Ano Poroia lies on the old caravan route between Constantinople and Monastiri, and Viglatoras was originally built as a hani, a travellers’ inn with space for camels on the ground floor. After camels were replaced by other means of transport and the route was no longer used, it became a family home, until Stelios and Phylli converted it into an inn again. “Perfect” is really the only way to describe it. When I arrived on a winter day, I was invited into the living room, where the fire was going, my favourite music was playing, and I was spoiled with tea and a home baked chocolate cake. I had a room done in an elegant traditional style, combining the intimate atmosphere typical of a guesthouse with the comfort you usually only find in luxurious hotels. Breakfast the next day was a feast: a parade of warm bread, perfectly boiled eggs, delicious homemade pies and sweets, and fresh orange juice. Simply perfect!